Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Life on the farm 01/26/09: making the cut

Instead of obsessing over the tanking price of milk this week, I’m going to concentrate on a yearly exercise that brings to bear all the hope of a more temperate season. No, I’m not picking out flower and vegetable seed packets; I am making up commercial meat-cutting lists.

We are sending animals to be processed in February, so I need to decide now what to sell during the summer market. I always consider the food trends predicted: adobo is in, home cooking resurges, “value” is the new “sustainable”, “local” is the new “organic”, etc. Is there a primal on the rise in popularity? How much inventory should I commit to sausage? Moreover, what do I not mind eating if it doesn’t sell - and what is that adobo stuff, anyway?

I don’t always pick winners. Last year, I thought fresh pork shanks would be the next big thing. They were looking pretty tasty in a food magazine, and I thought, ‘I eat beef, veal, and lamb shanks, so this should sell’. Smoked pork shanks move; fresh shanks, not so much.

Upside: they are really good – it’s a rich stew meat that falls apart after braising for 6-8 hours, and one easily feeds two people twice.

Downside: I think I sold only one.

Country-style pork ribs also disappointed me in sales, though this wasn’t a new item in 2008. I can only guess there was an upsurge of desire for instant gratification and a decrease in personal time allocated to cooking, since this is another cut that must be stewed or slow cooked and smoked. It’s much easier to grill a pork chop than to wait 6 hours for a tender saucy rib.


Upside: I like saucy ribs

Downside: there isn’t one – they’re now all mine!

The surprise of last year turned out to be the new sweet Italian veal sausages. I only had 50 pounds made, and they sold out in no time.

Upside: not everyone likes pork and this addition to our sausage line fit in nicely.

Downside: the lady who told me I ruined her life by not having them on the day she wanted them. Seriously. People don’t want to be without their favorite sausages, ever.

In addition to meat, I need to decide what cheeses to make for the summer market. Putting aside 20-pound blue cheeses to age longer works well - think about the difference between a 60-day cheddar and a 2-year old cheddar and you get the idea. I’ll do the same to our mountain tommes this year to get more complexity and sharpness out of the wheels.

Upside: larger cheeses reduce labor, this helps hold the cost down.

Downside: heavier to lift, harder to cut into manageable portions.

I have one more week to think about it, but I’m already certain I will carry more Bratwurst, ground pork, and lots of bacon. I’m betting that 2009 will turn out to be all about big flavors, easy to prepare meals, and strong cheeses.